By November many folks in Victoria are grumbling about how much they hate the sound of the neighbors’ leaf blowers. Everywhere else in Canada folks are dealing with SNOW blowers, so I reckon we can get over ourselves.
photo by SVSeekins
The Fall
Realistically, the leaf blowers aren’t even that useful once the leaves are soggy. Set the noise maker aside & get raking!
photo by SVSeekins
Planting
Although I shop for bulbs in September, (for best selection) I often hold off planting until November. Once the ground is wet I don’t have to kill myself trying to dig deep enough to place the bulbs where they’ll be safe & happy.
Planting trees or shrubs now, while the soil is still a bit warm, gives their roots time to establish before the dormant season. They’ll need regular watering until the weather gets really wet, but they’ll be that much further ahead than if I wait until the spring to plant / move.
photo by SVSeekins
Fall Clean up
As soon as the frost hits, the Begonias & Dahlias turn black & fall overnight. Some folks dig the tubers out & take them inside for the winter. I’m happy that our garden is well-drained, so there’s less chance of them rotting in the ground… And I mulch heavily in the winter to protect them from freezing… so they’re fairly safe.
(Also, I’m lazy that way.)
Many other perennials also collapse or just look downright untidy, so they get sheered. Leaving just an inch or two of stalk helps when I lay mulch. They serve as an easy measuring stick for how much to put on.
Any of the spring blooming perennials that have out grown their space are prime for dividing.
eg. iris… red hot pokers… peony…
The November storms bring all sorts of seaweed up high on the beaches. That seaweed makes fabulous fertilizer for the gardens.
photo by SVSeekins
Irrigation
The fall rains take a loooong time to soak in, so it’s often surprisingly dry deep down until mid or late in November. It’s a fine balance between keeping the watering hose while needed, & getting it inside before the freeze Realistically the hoses will survive a frost, so once the Dahlias drop dead & turn black, I know it’s time to quit watering & bring the hose inside….
Ditto for blowing out the irrigation sprinklers
photo by SVSeekins
Pruning
As the roses finish up, prune them back by 1/3 for the winter. Hold off until the forsythia blooms in March to prune them fully.
Prune birches & laburnum as soon as the leaves are off & their structure is most apparent. They tend to ‘bleed’ when cut in the winter.
As they go dormant, now’s a good time for serious shaping of deciduous hedges.
If growing in a spot that gets strong winter winds, reduce the height of the Butterfly Bush & Lavatera, but otherwise save the pruning until spring.
Be proactive in pruning out any dead, diseased, or damaged wood before the wicked wind storms hit (we know they’re coming!)
photo by SVSeekins
Tools
Keep those pruners & clippers sharp
It’s best to clean pruners between bushes. Spray with a 10% bleach + water mixture. This helps prevent the spread of diseases through the garden.
Lawns
photo by SVSeekins
The lawn is green, & the falling leaves are brown. The mower clippings are a great combo for the compost bin.
Mowing the lawn just a little makes raking all the leaves & acorns easier, but only do it if the grass is too long to rake. We’ll soon be completely finished with this chore for the year 🙂
photo by SVSeekins
Veg / Berry Patch (& Orchard)
It’s clean up time in the veggie patch. Compost any of the annuals that have finished, but garbage any foliage that has mildew or disease on it (it’s best to keep out of the garden cycle)
Some tender plants will survive longer if they’re protected under row covers
Plant garlic now for a crop to harvest next July
It’s harvest time for late apples… squash… salad greens… beets…. carrots… cabbage… kale… chard… leeks…
Bay trees & young rosemary are too tender to survive outside, so if you want to keep them, find some space inside for them
Large Rhubarb can be divided now to rejuvenate & increase production
Cut back the asparagus to about an inch & mulch well over it. (Like rhubarb, it’s a heavy feeder)
Spray peaches against peach leaf curl
photo by SVSeekins
Greenhouse
Tidy up the greenhouse & any of the plants intended to overwinter there. Any powdery mildew or other disease will spread while my attention is elsewhere – -putting everything at risk!
Even an unheated greenhouse does the trick for overwintering tender plants like some of the sedums I couldn’t resist… Now I just have to remember to water them every once in a while — but just a little bit!
Clean any freshly emptied pots in bleachy wash water. No sense storing possible virus over winter. Besides, it’s so nice in spring to start planting without having to clean up first.
photo by SVSeekins
Ponds & Water Gardens
Clear out any of the annual floating plants before they end up rotting & sinking to the bottom
Move water lilies into deeper water where they’re less likely to freeze
Stretch a fine net over the pond to keep the leaves out of the water. They’ll mush up & cause all sorts of mess in pumps.
There are more than enough garden clubs around Victoria that I could easily attend a different one each week of the month. Here is just a sample plan :
AND THEN….
There’s the Victoria Natural History Society – – a club that host weeklytalks through the fall and winter! (I especially appreciate the botany presentations on the 3rd Tuesday.)
For some unknown reason I get a kick out of running the leaf blower. During dry weeks it works great for piling leaves. And performs better than the rake on rocky hillsides. When the apple leaves fall, they’re a snap to blow directly into the flower beds (they mulch down so quickly I put them straight to where they can do some good.)
Even though our average first frost is November 5, we could get cold snap any time. Begonias & Dahlias will collapse & turn black in response. Some folks dig them out & bring them inside for the winter. I’m happy that our garden is well-drained, so there’s less chance of them rotting in the ground… And I mulch heavily in the winter to protect them from freezing… so they’re fairly safe.
(Also, I’m lazy that way.)
Irrigation
photo by SVSeekins
It’s a balance between keeping the watering hose out as long as it’s needed & getting it inside before the freeze. (The fall rains haven’t been enough to soak in more than an inch at most, so it’s still very dry). Realistically the hoses will survive a frost, so as soon as the Dahlias drop dead & turn black, I know it’s time to quit watering & bring the hose inside….
Any of the spring blooming perennials that have grown out of their space are ripe for dividing once the ground is moist enough to dig comfortably
eg. iris… red hot pokers… peony… hosta
This is also an optimum time to take a look for plants that aren’t performing as well as they should. I like to get multiples when adding a new species into the garden. That way I can plant it in 2-3 places to find out where it’s happiest. Every autumn I ‘move around the furniture’. 🙂
Planting trees or shrubs now, while the soil is still warm, gives their roots time to establish before the dormant season. They’ll need regular watering until the weather gets really wet, but they’ll be that much further ahead than if I wait until the spring to plant / move.
Seed Saving
photo by SVSeekins
After the flowers finish up, the plant sets seed. Before the pods open I like to pick & distribute them into areas where more are welcome next year
eg. snapdragon… goldenrod… lychnis…
And now it’s time to think about leaving some of the blooms on the plants, to produce bird feed for the winter
ie: dusty miller… yarrow… rudbeckia…
Pruning
photo by SVSeekins
As the roses finish up, prune them back by 1/3 for the winter. Hold off until the forsythia blooms in March to prune them fully.
Now’s also a good time to tidy up the summer flowering shrubs
eg. weigela… escallonia…
Wisteria can be cut back to side branches with 2-3 leaves for better spring-flowering
If growing in a spot that gets strong winter winds, reduce the height of the Butterfly Bush & Lavatera, but otherwise save the pruning until spring.
Tools
photo by SVSeekins
Keep those pruners & clippers sharp
It’s best to clean pruners between bushes. Spray with a 10% bleach + water mixture. This helps to prevent the spread of diseases through the garden.
Lawns
The lawn is green again, but the falling leaves are brown. The clippings are a great combo for the compost bin.
Mowing the lawn just a little shorter than usual certainly makes raking all the leaves & acorns easier.
Veg / Berry Patch (& Orchard)
photo by SVSeekins
It’s clean up time in the veggie patch. Compost any of the annuals that have finished, but garbage any foliage that has mildew or disease on it (it’s best to keep it out of the garden cycle)
Some tender plants will survive longer if they’re protected under row covers
Plant garlic now for a crop to harvest next July
It’s harvest time for late tomatoes… and apples… and pumpkin!,… squash… salad greens… beets…. carrots… cabbage… kale… chard… leeks…
Dig the potatoes as the foliage dies back. Leave them to dry indoors if it’s wet outside.
The herbs are finishing, too! Cut 6 inch young stems, bind into bunches, then store them in a paper bag in a warm dry place for a couple of weeks to dry
Remove the last of the leaves around the tomato fruit so it gets more sun for ripening. If it’s looking like we’ll be hit with a frost, cut down the tomato skeleton with the green tomatoes still on it & bring it inside. Hang it in a cool, dry room & check regularly as the fruit continues to mature 🙂
Save some seed from the best plants for next year’s stock
Bay trees & young rosemary are too tender to survive outside, so if you want to keep them, find some space inside for them
Large Rhubarb can be divided now to rejuvenate & increase production
Cut back the asparagus to about an inch & mulch well over it. (Like rhubarb, it’s a heavy feeder)
The tall stalks of the sun-chokes can be cut back now. The tubers survive well in the ground, so they can be harvested as you need them
The vines grew like crazy all summer benefit from being fastened to the trellis before the wicked winds & wild storms hit.
Greenhouse
photo by SVSeekins
Tidy up the greenhouse & any of the plants intended to overwinter there. Any powdery mildew or other disease will spread while my attention is elsewhere & put everything at risk
Even an unheated greenhouse does the trick for overwintering tender plants like some of the sedums that I couldn’t resist
I remove any annuals from the hanging baskets, but choose to keep the fuchsia. I find they overwinter in the greenhouse just fine & are happy next year with fresh potting mix.
Clean any freshly emptied pots in bleachy wash water. No sense storing possible virus over winter + so nice in spring to start planting without having to clean up first.
Ponds & Water Gardens
photo by SVSeekins
Clear out any of the annual floating plants before they end up rotting & sinking to the bottom
Move water lilies into deeper water where they’re less likely to freeze
Stretch a fine net over the pond to keep the leaves out of the water. They’ll mush up & cause all sorts of mess in pumps.
Wild mushrooms grow like crazy at this time of year & Swan Lake Nature Sanctuary can always be counted on for interacting with local experts.
The Compost Education Centre has lots of information on soil science, growing food & (of course) composting. It’s so nice to soak up a free workshop (or two).
Garden Variety Life 