My morning coffee entertainment is watching the birds relay food to their voracious young back in the nest. If I’m lucky, one of these mornings I’ll get to watch the little ones fledge.
Planting
If you’re gung-ho about watering hanging baskets all summer, basket-stuffers galore are at all the plant sales this month. When choosing plants, keep in mind whether the basket lives in a sunny or shady location. Another handy design strategy is providing some “thrill, spill & fill” in each container.
Plant summer flowering bulbs (dahlias, gladioli, canna lilies & such), Many folks grew them inside over the past month or two, and move them into the ground now. At the same time as planting the dahlias, put in the stakes. They’re not needed right now, but they will be later, and then there’s a greater risk of damaging the roots.
Perennials
Begonias, geraniums, & other tender plants that have also been over-wintered inside can be set in the garden now. Even tropical house plants can go out to a dappled spot on the deck. It’s amazing how much faster they grow outside in the summer.
Even though they’re small now, pinch back snapdragons by 1/2… they’ll respond by growing bushier & produce more blooms.
Cut back the euphorbias after their big show. Letting them go to seed in the garden is sheer folly. These garden thugs spread easily enough through underground runners.
photo by SVSeekins
Dead-heading spent blooms can spur some plants into another flush of flowers
Weeding
Wander through the beds digging the weeds… This is also an opportunity to downsize populations of snails, slugs & tent caterpillars as you discover them
Unless you’re totally cool with widespread volunteers next year, cut back or pull out the centurea, forget me nots, cerinthe and other heavy seeders after their blooms are done.
photo by SVSeekins
Irrigation
Whether it’s garden hoses, or a fully automated system, it’s time to prep irrigation before it’s really needed. Replacing rubber gaskets & rings reduces that nasty dribble at the hose connection.
When you water, water slowly and deeply in the early morning or evening when the air is cool and calm.
photo by SVSeekins
Lawns
If there are bare patches that you’d like to seed over, go for it. Keep that area moist to give the seeds some support until established.
Keeping the mower blade above 2 inches will provide a lush lawn, and also enough leaf cover to give the grass’ roots a little shade (so they don’t dry out so quickly).
The meadow grasses on our rocky outcropping are ready to go to seed, so C heads out there with the whipper-snipper. That way the seed doesn’t spread into the beds
If the lawn gets 1 inch of water every two weeks, it’ll still will turn the color of straw in the heat of summer but will bounce back super quickly after temperatures cool in fall.
photo by SVSeekins
Veg & Berry Patch
As it’s warming up, give the ‘starts’ some outside time during the day to harden off… they’ll be ready to plant outside by the Victoria Day long weekend
herbs: Plant heat-loving seedlings of annual herbs like basil, cilantro, & parsley. Perennial herbs, like chives (blooming now), oregano, rosemary, and thyme find permanent homes in my borders. Take care with mints – they should go into containers to keep them from invading the world.
As the potatoes start to grow, ‘hilling up’ (adding extra soil around the stems) will help the plants produce more.
Enjoy the fresh rhubarb, but leave a few stems to help the plant feed the roots & produce a bigger crop next year.
It’s best to clean pruners between bushes. Spray with a solution of 10% bleach + water mix. This helps to prevent the spread of diseases through the garden.
Pruning
Forsythia & Other flowering shrubs should be pruned right after flowering so they have the full growing season to prepare for next year’s bloom
photo by SVSeekins
Fertilizing
add compost or sea soil to areas of heavy feeding
fertilize spring bulbs after bloom so they can soak up nutrient & rebuild the bulbs for next year. Note: Let the leaves (solar panels) continue to grow, helping out with the bulb’s rebuild.
photo by SVSeekins
Seasonal Color trees: apples… dogwood… magnolia… chestnuts… laburnum… hawthorn… shrubs: camelia… heathers… pieris (lily of the valley shrub)… rhododendron & azalea… lilacs… weigelia… california lilac (ceanothus)… wisteria… perennials: wild violets… trillium… bleeding hearts… erysimum (wall flower)… euphorbia… myosotis (forget me nots)… pulmonaria… vinca (periwinkle)… calla lily… oregon sunshine… evergreen clematis & clematis montana… solomon’s seal… ferns: sword… giant chain… deer… the full gamut… bulbs: camas… blue bells… alium…
photo by SVSeekins
Planning & Events Plant sale’s & garden tours abound. Whether I need anything or not, I’m sure to trip over a few.
The birds are waking me up with the sunrise at this time of year. They’re busy nesting & hooking up. The bird bath is occasionally dry now, so it’s good to give it a good cleaning & refill. Even birds need a nice spa treatment when things are hectic, right?
photo by SVSeekins
Tools
Keep the lawn mower blades sharpened & the proper bits lubricated as the machine is back in regular use now.
Give the garden hoses & sprinklers a good once over to be sure they’re in shape for the upcoming dry season.
Keep those pruners & clippers sharp, too!
It’s best to clean pruners between bushes. Spray with a 10% bleach + water mixture. This helps to prevent the spread of diseases through the garden.
photo by SVSeekins
Pruning
Pinch back snapdragon & other summer bloomers to promote bushier plants & more blooms
Shear back winter heathers after blooms peter out.
Shear back rosemary.
Prune conifers when the bright new growth starts to darken to the matching shade of green (as needed to contain size)
Prune stone fruit trees while blooming (plum, peach, cherry, nectarine…)
Roses can be pruned when the forsythia is in bloom.
Prune back ornamental grasses 4-6 inches from the ground & compost clippings.
Once the Corsican Hellebore is finished blooming the whole stem can be cut to the ground. New stems will bloom next year.
photo by SVSeekins
Forsythia & Other flowering shrubs should be pruned right after flowering so they have the full growing season to prepare for next year’s bloom
start with removing dead, diseased & damaged limbs
then take out crossing branches, & give the interior of the shrub some breathing space
take out some old branches to allow for fresh growth
try not to get too crazy… 1/3 of the living growth is plenty 🙂
photo by SVSeekins
Fertilizing
Add compost or sea soil to areas of heavy feeding
Sprinkle horticultural lime around clematis & scratch it into mulch
If you’re really wanting a lush lawn, now’s the optimum time to fertilize.
Fertilize spring bulbs after bloom so that they can soak up as many nutrients & rebuild the bulbs for next year.
note: Let the leaves (solar panels) can soak up as much goodness from the sunshine to help out with the rebuild
photo by SVSeekins
Planting
Plant summer flowering bulbs (dahlias, gladioli & lilies), depending on the soil conditions. They don’t like sitting in waterlogged soils.
Sow sweet peas and hardy annuals such as alyssum & marigolds.
New rhodos, camellias & other spring temptations are in the nurseries. Get newly acquired plants into ground ASAP
photo by SVSeekins
dig the hole just a bit wider & deeper than the pot leaving some loose soil in the bottom
add bone meal as a root booster & compost as a fertilizer… stir in some water
gently tap plant out of its container & set in hole so that it matches ground level… fill in hole with mix of compost & original soil … firm in
water well so air pockets bubble out of any places around the roots
photo by SVSeekins
Weeding
With the temperature increasing so is growth. Thank goodness for that January mulching! It helps keep moisture in the soil, but also really deters weeds. Wander through the beds digging the occasional perennial weed (dandelion) as well as any snails or slugs as you discover them.
If the mulching didn’t happen, keep a check on the carpet of young weeds and remove them before they take hold… Pop weed goes to seed quickly, so get rid of it fast!
photo by SVSeekins
Perennials
Peonies are jumping out of the ground. Before the plants get so big that branches will break during support installation, get those peony rings in place. (I use tomato cages instead)
Overgrown clumps of snowdrops & winter aconite bulbs can be divided & moved to where ever you’d like more
Birds are more plentiful this month. They’re singing, mating & nest-building. I like to clean & refill birdbaths for them. It’s also nice to provide some nesting materials seeing as how I’ve already composted much of the natural material over winter.
photo by SVSeekins
Tools
Sharpen pruners, shears and hedge clippers and make sure they’re free from rust.
It’s best to clean pruners between each shrub. Spray with a solution of 10% bleach & water. This helps to prevent the spread of diseases through the garden.
photo by SVSeekins
Spraying
Fruit Trees – before the blooms open, apply dormant oil to control pests (unless it was done in February)
Pruning
photo by SVSeekins
Hydrangea should be pruned after the middle of March to avoid die back from freezing winds.
The common butterfly bush blooms only on new growth, so now’s a good time to prune it to the shape that suits
Roses can be pruned when the forsythia is in bloom.
Forsythia & other flowering shrubs can be pruned right after flowering.
bergenia – elephant ears
Fertilizing
Add compost or Sea Soil to areas of heavy feeding, like rhubarb, asparagus patch & veggie bed
Planting
photo by SVSeekins
Plant summer flowering bulbs (gladioli & lilies) towards the end of the month, depending on the soil conditions. They don’t like sitting in waterlogged soils.
Sow sweet peas and hardy annuals such as alyssum, & calendula.
photo by SVSeekins
Weeding
As the temperature increases so will growth. This is when that January mulching really starts to pay off. Wander through the beds digging out the occasional perennial weeds (dandelions…) If the mulching didn’t happen, keep a check on the carpet of young weeds & remove them before they take hold… Pop Weed goes to seed quickly, so get rid of it fast!
Donkey Tail Spurge
Perennials
The worst of the cold is past now & the birds have more choices for food. Now’s the time to cut back the perennials left standing for the birdseed… Tall sedums blooms are a good example. Isn’t it nice to see the new growth at the base is already showing?
Divide Snowdrops & Winter Aconite (Eranthis) while ‘in the green’.
Pot up the Tuberous Begonias, Dahlias & Cannas that have wintered in their bare root storage… keeping them inside gives them a head start before moving them outside in May.
hellebore and; crocus
Now’s also the time to finish up dividing those overgrown hardy perennials:
Cut the tops back to a couple of inches.
Lift the whole plant out with a fork.
Look for a natural line across the plant and cut it right through with a sharp knife.
Continue this until you’ve divided the plant up to suit your needs.
Replant the pieces in groups of 3-5 to make an impact in ornamental borders from repeating colour schemes.
Pot up spares immediately. (The garden club welcomes donations!)
Water well.
photo by SVSeekins
Lawns
Edge the beds & lawns now, slicing the grass runners that are invading the beds.
The grass is growing steadily now,
Make sure the mower is serviced and ready for the season.
photo by SVSeekins
Before mowing, remove thatch and moss by scarifying with a lawn rake.
Set the blades to a higher setting (3cm) for the first few cuts.
Stay off or try to minimise activity on the lawn if it’s wet. It will turn to mud very quickly in the wet.
Re-seed any bare areas: scratch the surface with a lawn rake and sow.
Veg & Berry Patch
photo by SVSeekins
Get into the raspberry patch & take out the spent & spindly stems. Tidy up the bed & tie this year’s producers to the trellis.
Starts – Direct seed arugula, broad beans, corn salad, kale, chard, spinach, oriental greens, and peas outdoors.
photo by SVSeekins
Greenhouse & Cold Frames
Buy seed potatoes now and store the tubers in a light, cool (10°C), frost-free spot and leave them to sprout. (This is called chitting.) Egg cartons make good chitting trays. Make sure to put the tubers with the ‘eye’ end (where the sprouts will grow from) upwards.
Starts – asparagus, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, leeks, lettuce, peppers, eggplants… start tomatoes later in the month
photo by SVSeekins
Watch for ‘damping off’ disease in seedlings in the greenhouse or indoors. This fungus causes the stems to collapse and the seedlings to fall over.
Avoid over-crowding seeds & sprouts. It’s better to have a tray of fewer, healthier plants than to lose many to this disease
Water often, but sparingly
Ensure that seedlings get enough light to prevent them from becoming ‘leggy’.
Turn seed trays daily to ensure even growth.
photo by SVSeekins
Ponds
Remove fallen leaves and other decaying plant debris from ponds. Frogs and other aquatic life will be emerging from winter hibernation so a good tidy up now prevents stagnation & algae build-up.
photo by SVSeekinsSeasonal Color trees: flowering plum… early cherries… shrubs: forsythia… red flowering currant… silk tassel bush… camellia… viburnum spring dawn… mahonia… heathers… Pieris (lily of the valley shrub)… sarcococca… heavenly bamboo… early rhodos… cotoneaster… perennials: aubretia… basket of gold (Aurinia)… candy tuft… bergenia… hellebore… primula… winter jasmine… donkey tail spurge (euphorbia)… vinca (periwinkle)… ferns: licorice… bulbs: crocus… winter aconite (Eranthis)… Cyclamen coum… early daffodils… early species tulips… hyacinth… Chionodoxa (glory of snow)…
photo by SVSeekins
Garden shops are opening up for the season, so it’s fun to cruise them for ideas, but most of their early starts aren’t ready to go out into the garden yet, so control yourself (unless you’re up for nursing those babies inside for another month or two).
